A word of caution: Do NOT use anything with oil in it. Oil pastels and the majority of human makeup are big no-nos. These products can cause staining or even deterioration of the resin over time. Sealants also do not set over oil based products.
Sealant
Sealant is needed to 1) protect the resin from staining 2) provide a tooth for products to stick and 3) seal and protect work. Most sealants take about 15-30 minutes to dry completely, sometimes less. All brands are toxic if inhaled, so be sure to protect yourself with a respirator each and every time you spray and NEVER spray in a poorly venitlated area.
Mr Super Clear Flat and Testors Dullcoat (I soak my cans in warm water before use and it dissolves the paper labels)
The following brands have been tested and are safe for BJDs: Mr. Super Clear Flat, ZM Finishing Powder Spray, Citadel Matte Purity Seal, Testors Dullcoat, and Model Masters. The easiest to find in the United States being Testors. I think some people have also found Citadel Purity Seal and Model Masters in their local hobby stores as well. The others will need to be ordered online if you're in The States.
Faceup Remover
A lot of people swear by rubbing alcohol or brush cleaner for faceup removal, but I've always just used 100% acetone. It's quick, easy, and cheap to buy. This stuff will take off just about anything. Just be careful, and test it somewhere on your doll beforehand, because there have been reports of adverse reactions to some resins. I've yet to have a problem using it though. Due to the strength of this remover, DO NOT soak any part of your doll. Do a quick wipedown, allowing the acetone to evaporate and not pool, and then wash off with soap and water.
100% Acetone
If you're looking for a remover for plastic doll repaint projects, you may want to go with a less strong product. I have used acetone on Monster High and didn't have an issue on the vinyl head, but it melts the plastic bodies. Use with caution on any surface, and always test first.
Brushes
There are no specific set of rules about what brushes to buy. Different people have different preferences on size, shapes, brands, etc. Just go poke around your hobby store and get a feel for the different brushes. You're mainly going to want a teeny brush for small details like eyelash/brow hairs, a medium size round brush for pastel blushing, a smaller round (or even an angled) brush for blushing around nose/eyes/ears/etc., and a big fluffy brush to dust away stray pastels and keep your work clean.
Pastels
Chalk (or soft) pastels is what you want to look for here, not oil. Some good brands I'd recommend are Rembrandt and Faber Castell. Just try to look for "Artist Grade" quality. Cheaper pastels have less pigment and more filler and normally don't smooth on as well.
Faber Castell and other various brands
A few more recommended tools (shown in the right compartment of the tray) are : tweezers, blade (Exacto knives work well, but the one shown is a simple box cutter) - used for shaving pastels if you'd rather not use sandpaper, and kneaded eraser - useful for shaping pastel work such as eyebrows.
Watercolor Pencils
Please be aware that there is a huge difference between watercolor pencils and regular color pencils. Regular color pencils will not stick to resin very well and will create a waxy look. My favorite brands of pencils are Prismacolor and Derwent. Please be aware that if you decide to use these, go ahead and invest in a good quality sharpener. The cores are very delicate and break easily if the blades are not sharp enough.
Paints
The most commonly used kind of paint for BJDs is acrylic paint. Now, pretty much any sort of acrylic paint will be safe for resin, but you're going to get what you pay for. Cheap craft grade paint will not work as well as artist grade paint. You can MAKE it work in a pinch, but it won't be fun. My favorite brand is Liquitex.
Liquitex Basics 24 count acrylic paint set
Paint Thinner / Retarder
While acrylic paint WILL work right out of the tube, it'll go on much smoother with some sort of thinner or retarder. The kind I use is Liquitex Professional Slow-Dri Fluid Retarder. It keeps my paint from drying out too quickly and keeps my paint nice and fluid.
Gloss
Gloss makes areas like lips and eyes dynamic and pop. It makes your work looked well finished. There are different options as far as how glossy you want things to get (high gloss, medium gloss), but I've actually found that with the Liquitex Basics Gloss Varnish, you can dilute with water to achieve the level of luster you're looking for. More water added = dull sheen (think eyebrows) / straight out of the bottle = high sheen.
Glue
I'm just going to give a quick little recommendation for glues that work well to hold eyelashes on. Elmer's White Glue is pretty good, but I've noticed it leaves a sort of residue and the hold isn't fantastic. Aleene's Tacky Glue is my favorite. It dries clear and flexible and the hold is much better. If you get the Turbo kind, it dries faster and you're not stuck there holding lashes in place for 5 minutes.
Misc Supplies
Paper towels, Q-tips, Magic Erasers, and even toothpicks are helpful to have in arms reach. Also sandpaper for grinding pastels onto, a cup or water, and a little palette or plate for mixing paints.
If you're starting out and want a quick, easy solution, Volks carries a faceup starter kit for $65. It appears to come with all the basics.
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